I Walked Into Nepal’s Forbidden Kingdom — Here’s What Upper Mustang Feels Like

Time​‍​‌‍​‍‌​‍​‌‍​‍‌ slows down in some parts of the Himalayas. Upper Mustang, however, is the place where time stops altogether.

This place that was once a kingdom of Tibet is a high-altitude desert lying behind the towering walls of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri. The border was closed to outsiders until the year 1992. Nowadays the number of travelers permitted yearly is only a few — and a walk there is similar to a jump into the last century.

I thought it was going to be a trek. Instead, I discovered a living museum of ancient culture, silence, wind, and prayer ​‍​‌‍​‍‌​‍​‌‍​‍‌flags.

The First Shock: A Desert in the Himalayas

Most​‍​‌‍​‍‌​‍​‌‍​‍‌ of the time when individuals think about Nepal, they picture green hills and snow peaks. Upper Mustang however totally shatters that image.

The soil is bare. The sky is limitless. The cliffs turn red at sunset.

This is a rain-shadow region of the Himalayas, a place where monsoon clouds don't arrive. Local people live off the land around a few small water sources and every stone wall seems to tell a story of survival.

You can walk for hours and only meet wind, prayer flags, and the sound of your breath.

And even... it feels like a kind of ​‍​‌‍​‍‌​‍​‌‍​‍‌tranquility.

Kagbeni: The Doorway to Another World

In​‍​‌‍​‍‌​‍​‌‍​‍‌ Kagbeni, everything changes.

It is an ancient village and the last checkpoint going to Upper Mustang. When you get past Kagbeni, phones won’t work, there won’t be a road, and the modern world will be just a memory.

Your guide shows permissions. Prayer wheels are turned by monks. And without noticing, you are in the Forbidden Kingdom ​‍​‌‍​‍‌​‍​‌‍​‍‌already.

Lo Manthang: The City That Time Forgot

After​‍​‌‍​‍‌​‍​‌‍​‍‌ wandering through canyons and cliffs for days, Lo Manthang is like a vision.

It is a white-walled city surrounded by desert. No cars. No noise. Only prayer flags and horses.

Within the city walls, life goes on the same way it did centuries ago:

Women are still weaving wool.

Monks are still chanting.

Children are still playing in the dusty alleys.

Old men are turning prayer wheels in silence.

This town is not made for tourists. It is a living ​‍​‌‍​‍‌​‍​‌‍​‍‌culture.

The Sky Caves That No One Can Explain

One​‍​‌‍​‍‌​‍​‌‍​‍‌ day, you decide to go hiking to the Sky Caves of Chhoser.

These caves are literally carved into the sheer cliffs - there are hundreds of caves, and some are even 2,000 years old.

It is a mystery to everyone how these caves were made and why people chose to live there.

You go up ladders, squeeze into caves, and it hits you that people were surviving in this kind of place way before the invention of modern roads, maps, or ​‍​‌‍​‍‌​‍​‌‍​‍‌borders.

The Wind Teaches You Patience

Every afternoon, the Mustang wind rises.

It howls through valleys, carries dust, and reminds you that this land is in charge — not you.

So you learn:

• To walk early
• To slow down
• To listen
• To respect the land
  

This is not a trek to rush.

It’s a trek to feel.

Why Upper Mustang Is One of the Best Treks in Nepal (Even in Monsoon)

Here’s the secret most people don’t know:

When Nepal is drowning in monsoon rain, Upper Mustang stays dry.

That makes it:

• One of the best summer treks in Nepal
• Perfect for June–August travel
• Less crowded
• More dramatic skies
• More intimate experience
  

If you want solitude, this is it.

What Makes This Trek Different From Everest or Annapurna?

Everest shows you mountains.
Upper Mustang shows you humanity.

This trek is for people who want:

• Culture, not crowds
• History, not hashtags
• Silence, not noise
• Meaning, not milestones

It’s not about reaching a base camp.
It’s about entering a world that still breathes ancient wisdom.

What You Should Know Before Going

Upper Mustang is protected for a reason.

• Special permit required ($500 for 10 days)
• Minimum 2 trekkers
• Licensed guide mandatory
• Limited lodges
• Simple food
• No luxury — only authenticity
  

But what you get in return is priceless.

Why You Should Go With Local Experts

This is not a place to figure things out on your own.

A local guide:

• Translates Tibetan culture
• Knows the trails and winds
• Handles permits
• Protects your safety
• Opens doors you didn’t know existed
  

Himalayan Hero Adventures uses guides trained specifically for Mustang, not general trekking guides.

And that changes everything.

The Moment That Stays With You

On the last night in Lo Manthang, I stood outside my lodge.

The sky was full of stars.
No sound.
No lights.
No distractions.

Just me, the wind, and the knowledge that some places still exist beyond time.

Upper Mustang is one of them.

Should You Do the Upper Mustang Trek?

If you want comfort—maybe not.
If you want meaning—absolutely.

This trek will not impress you.
It will change you.

Ready to Walk Into the Forbidden Kingdom?

Limited permits mean limited opportunities.

👉 Explore the Upper Mustang Trek with Himalayan Hero Adventures
👉 Talk to a local expert
👉 Secure your permit before it sells out